Tuesday, September 13, 2016

So Sunday we had a sad day.  We really enjoyed Cape Breton and leaving was very hard.  Stopped for breakfast in Baddeck – the food was only so-so, but eating there allowed us to linger just a little bit longer.  We stopped at the Visitors’ Center located just on the Cape Breton side of the Canso Causeway – the one we had stopped at coming onto the island a week earlier.  Looked for souvenirs, but didn’t find anything we hadn’t already purchased (the info on the Clan Mackay) that looked interesting.  So back on the road.  Didn’t see anything to take pics of – maybe it was just that we really didn’t want to leave so nothing looked interesting.

Stopped for a late lunch in Antigonish (hadn’t found any wayside park to eat at) – and realized that we were just a few blocks away from the campground we had stayed at just a week earlier (Whidden's).  Being that it was VERY windy, making driving a bit of a chore, we went back to the campground.  SO DIFFERENT!!!  Now that’s its “off season” there were only a few die-hards.  We had our choice of spots and picked one close to the washroom.  Most importantly – it was FLAT (remember that when we were here over Labour Day weekend we had a site that was VERY tilted.  It was a good thing to stop and spend the night.  After a bit of a walk and just some soup for dinner, Goldie rocked us to sleep.

But yesterday (Monday), leaving Antigonish, Rick wanted to stop quite a bit.  Just to see whatever, even though whatever often turned out to be stupid.  Not stupid was looking at the Tidal Bore in Truro – part of the Bay of Fundy.  But it was so windy (a cold wind because it’s getting to be fall), we didn’t stay long.  Did take pictures – will have to upload them when we can.  We did pass up the “opportunity” to visit the Giantess Anna Sawn Museum in Tatamagouge – yes, a real woman giant who grew almost 8 feet tall, married a man as tall as her, etc., etc.  It was in the AAA Tourbook.  Kinda like finding the biggest skillet or the largest ball of twine.  So many Tourbook places, so little time.

So we kept driving.  Until we saw the sign for the Fundy Geological Museum.  Dutifully got off TransCan-104 at exit 13 (the Masstown ugh exit) and drove the loop.  Never saw the sign for the Museum, so got back on the TC104 at exit 12 (working our way down the exit numbers closer to New Brunswick).  Then I stumbled on the description of the Museum in the AAA Tourbook – said it was in Parrsboro and to take exit 5.  So we said why not even though it would be about an hour out of our way.  We have the time.  Beautiful drive through farmland – hadn’t seen this for a while because Cape Breton is very hilly and filled with spruce-and-aspen woods.  Got to the museum and realized that we were on the Bay of Fundy – east side.  So, before we went in, we went to look for the little city campground.  Found it – right on the cliffs overlooking the Bay.  The Glooscap Park and Campground run by the Town of Parrsboro.  Let’s stop for the night here, have lunch, then go look at the museum.  We were given one of the best spots in the campground – overlooking the bay and right by a trail down to the beach!!!  Lunch never tasted this good.

Back to the Museum – it was very interesting.  We knew about the shifting of the continents over the course of the earth’s geological history, but there was an exhibit that actually demonstrated it.  We saw how Morocco – in Tunisia on the African continent – and Parrsboro – in Nova Scotia on the North American continent – used to be adjacent to each other and way below the equator.  Through the shifting to the land masses, they are – of course – way apart.  But it was so nice to see an exhibit that brought this concept home.  More interesting facts presented in the Museum – all made comprehendible since everything was displayed for even the youngest child to enjoy and learn.

Back to the campground just in time for low tide.  The tide shifts here are amazing – 40 feet or more between low and high tide – the most change anywhere in the world.  So we have pictures, but internet connectivity here is so bad, I’ll have to upload them at a later time.

It is so beautiful and peaceful – and because we are only about 600 miles from home – we will stay two nights and get back on the road on Wednesday.  Where we will stop then – not sure.  We’ll let you know then.

Enjoy the journey…Dona and Rick

 

Saturday, September 10, 2016

Yesterday (Friday) was rainy and gloomy.  We had already decided to drive east to get a sense of Sydney (that’s Sydney, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, Canada).  That’s what we did.

Decided to drive around the city because a city is a city.  Small but serviceable airport, different types of residential neighborhoods, plenty of restaurants, and all of the modern types of service conveniences we have come to rely on in daily life.  To us – not too much traffic.  But to the locals – lots of traffic. 

About one and a quarter hours driving and we ended up in Louisbourg to see the fortress.  The difference between a fortress and a fort – a fortress is designed to protect an entire town; a fort is just a military outpost.  So the Fortress at Louisbourg surrounds the entire ancient town that was the first settlement in Nova Scotia.

Not my picture -- couldn't find the right angle to show off the entire area

It was French.  The First Nation people also visited and several, including the chief, ended up becoming Catholics (which was, of course, the religion the French brought over).  It’s now a national historic site (http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/ns/louisbourg/index.aspx).  Almost all has been rebuilt, but there is a place where you can see the original ruins and what are still being excavated.  During high season (which, of course, we missed), people roam the streets dressed in period costumes and most of the houses and buildings are open.  Our visit – coming on a shoulder period as it’s called – well, there were a few costumed reenactors roaming the streets, but not much open.  We did get a few pictures and did like seeing what an actual fortress would have looked like.  But it was VERY damp and cool, so we didn’t spend more than a couple of hours walking around.  Then time for lunch.  But first -- here are some pictures taken while we visited the Fortress:

 

Back at Goldie we met Colin and Trevor who have a Leisure Travel Van called a Unity.
It was parked right next to ours.  As we chatted, we mentioned that we had been looking at the Unity on line – if we decide to go full time.  They invited us in.  VERY nice.  But we shall stay with Goldie for now.  Trevor and Colin were asking if we thought it was better to come visit the states now or wait until after the election.  We just shook our heads and said they should go whenever they like.  We think the exchange rate will change back in Canada’s favor after the election, but who knows.  And really, the elections won’t change any of the tourism issues for Canadians – at least we hope.  Seems like everywhere we go, Canadians want to talk with us about the crazy U.S. elections -- the candidates and the process.  Anyway, Trevor and Colin – great people we hope to run into somewhere in our travels.  Seemed like a fun couple of guys with whom sharing a beer or glass of wine would be delightful.

Today (Saturday)  – well, today is a clean-up, do laundry, lay low kind of day.  It’s absolutely beautiful outside, so sitting around, relaxing, and catching up on rest is a good idea.

 

Tomorrow we start heading back home – going slow through parts we haven’t seen (in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick) before coming back into the states.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So we got all our chores done and after relaxing, went for a very early dinner to Baddeck Lobster Dinners -- the most highly rated restaurant in the area.

But being bored with lobster -- as if ANYONE could be bored with lobster -- we both chose the salmon.  DELICIOUS.  The thing about Baddeck Lobster Supper is you have to get there at about 4 p.m. (when they open) or else you're waiting FOREVER for a table (it gives a whole new meaning to limited seating).  Good thing we hadn't eaten a big lunch.  So -- early dinner.  Then on our drive home through Baddeck:

 

Yes -- that is THE National Geographic ship, the Explorer.  It's on a cruise around the Canadian Maritimes and had docked in VERY SMALL Baddeck for a "shopping trip".  About 180 passengers, we heard.  Gentleman from Chicago said "How else would I get to visit the Maritimes?"  Well, we have a suggestion – TREK IT J

 

Cape Breton Island is beautiful – we will miss it and will try to come back again.

 

More from our journey home... 

Enjoy the journey…Dona and Rick

 

Friday, September 9, 2016 – Cabot Trail Part Two:

 

Yesterday we drove the ENTIRE Cabot Trail.  That’s more than 185 miles since we started and ended back at the KOA.  Oh – a couple of things about yesterday’s post (truth in reporting and evidence of fact-checking):

1.     The rock I claimed is at Green Cove, not White Point as reported;

2.     It’s spelled “Smokey”, not “Smoky”.

 OK – back to our adventure.  Well, the pics will definitely show the difference between the west and east side of the trail.  Fall has begun to kiss the southern, more inland areas of the trail.

 

And the west is populated with predominately French descendants.  We saw the name Aucoin EVERYWHERE.

The loaf of bread is easily separated into two smaller loaves -- very practical AND delicious

Cheticamp – where we stopped for gas, postage stamps, and lunch – is an Acadian fishing village (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C3%A9ticamp,_Nova_Scotia).  We also stopped in to look at some tapestries from the region.  Instead of weaving, most of the tapestries are created using latch hook or needlepoint techniques.  Modern ones are very colorful depictions of birds, lighthouses, etc., but the older ones are more muted with specific scenes or patterns.  Pretty spectacular.

both images from Flora's Gift Shop in Cheticamp

Cheticamp livelihood is still predominately based on fishing.  As a matter of fact, fishing is the primary source of income (outside of tourism) for all of the western part of Cape Breton.  Lobster is even less expensive here than in Maine (take note, Patrick and Connie)!!!  We decided to stop for lunch:

Where Rick teased me about stopping

Where we actually stopped and everyone was speaking French

 

 

Leaving Cheticamp we headed north to start circling our way back.  But then we saw this house with the owner putting up more art:

My idea of how to cover up the chipped paint!!

Coming to a look-off (that’s what they’re called here – like washrooms and pop instead of look-out or turn-off, restrooms and soda), we see a Class B RV with the same color paint as ours.  From the back it looks like a Roadtrek, so we decided to pull up next to it.  Turns out it’s a Great West – similar to ours but built on a Ford chassis.  So as we’re talking and comparing notes with the couple from Alabama, another Class B pulls up.  Same paint job, but a PleasureWay from Missouri (and built on a Dodge chassis).  OK – all our Class B RV’s are from 2007/2008.  All were made by Canadian companies.  Each was designed with the same concepts in mind, but executed differently.  We six decided that Americans appreciate these Class B’s perhaps more than Canadians because we’re the only ones we really see driving them (the gas-powered as opposed to diesel versions).  And we also decided that there must have been an overproduction of the particular paint color used in 2007/08 because that’s all we’re seeing.  A fun chance encounter – the type we enjoy on our travels.

 

Interesting road signs -- didn't see any firearms nor the hairy mythical beast:










Here on the island it is road improvement season, just like back home in New Hampshire.  For those of you living in more temperate climates, road improvements go on year round.  For those of us living where there are actual seasons, well we call it either the season of destruction (usually winter) or the season of construction (usually any time after the last hard frost until we think we can still drive those big trucks over the roads without them sliding on the ice).  So everything on roads get backed up right now.  Good thing we aren’t in a hurry.

 

 

As we continued the Cabot Trail, we came through Wreck Cove once again:

 

Just like my tee shirt

 

After dinner, we returned to our campground to get ready for the night.  A young couple had just arrived and, in the quickening darkness, was trying to set up a tent – FOR THE FIRST TIME!!!  The couple didn’t even have a flashlight.  So – we turned on Goldie’s headlights and, with conversations in English, Arabic, and shadowy hand signals, got the tent set up so they could get their sleeping bags out of the car and get some rest.  We left them (Sandy and Shahid) our small flashlight so that they could get settled (we have extras).  Maybe today we’ll see how they fared, but if not – it was another fun (for us, anyway) adventure for us.  [Note -- we did see them the next morning, IN THE RAIN.  We felt very sorry for how damp they were and helped them out a bit more.  That's what campers do, you know.  We hope they don't give up on camping -- but maybe be a bit more prepared next time.]

Yesterday over breakfast we decided to extend our stay by two more days.  That will give us a full week here in Cape Breton.  And we still won’t have seen very much!!  Today we are going to try to make it to the eastern portion – to North Sydney, Sydney, Glace Bay, etc.  We want to see how that area compares to what we’ve seen thus far.

OK – we’re ending our third week on the road.  What has Rick missed:  the birds and lunch with Bob.  What has Dona missed:  actually not much (except more contact with her friends).  All-in-all we’re really enjoying this visit to Nova Scotia.

 

Enjoy the journey…Dona and Rick

Wednesday night, September 7, 2016 – Cabot Trail Part One:

There are more stars here than we can see at home.  And we can see almost all of them J  Moon rising as a crescent – last night was just the slightest Cheshire-cat grin.  Tonight a little fuller.  What a lovely ending to such a grand day.

Oh – gotta start this blog entry with things I haven’t done since August 22^nd:

1.     Haven’t watched TV
2.     Haven’t received any robo calls
3.     Haven’t received one piece of political mail
4.     Haven’t stepped on a scale
5.     Haven’t had more than one cup of coffee a day
6.     BUT I’M STILL GETTING UP AT 4 A.M.!!!!!!  ATLANTIC TIME!!!!

Cabot Trail and the Cape Breton Highlands – crowning jewels of the Island and, most probably, Nova Scotia. A 185-mile loop goes around a significant amount of Cape Breton and includes the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  Think of Yosemite with more green and more trees and cliffs on the ocean, but no meadows.  MAGNIFICENT!!!!  And hiking trails.  Can’t believe how many – for all levels of hikers.  http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ns/cbreton/index.aspx ; http://www.cabottrail.com



Today we drove the eastern half of Cabot (from the Gaelic College at St. Ann to Dingwall).  Many stops along the way – Visitor Center, lunch, hikes/walks, just looking, and getting a tee shirt at Wreck Cove.  Here are our pics from the day – it really looks like the travel brochures:

Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada

Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, Canada





 

Most of the signs are bilingual English/GAELIC!

Headed up Smoky Mountain

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



 

Towards the top of Smoky Mountain on Cape Smoky

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You get that we're on an island, right?  Surrounded by water?  So many beaches - so little time!!!! And lots of little coves -- some harbors with little villages and marinas and some just there to enjoy as is.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I claimed this as Dona's Point (didn't like the name White Point).  Saw an eagle flying just out of reach but gone before I could get to my iPhone.  This is now MINE!!!  Come visit -- but not too often. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can't see from the picture, but we saw WHALES!!!!!

Wreck Cove -- the picture on the front of this tee shirt is the ONLY building there.  The caption on the tee shirt says it all:  "Beautiful downtown Wreck Cove.  Cabot Trail, Cape Breton.  'Conveniently located in the middle of nowhere' ".  A sign in the window of an adjacent shed said "Presidential Election Woes? Eat a lobster sandwich!!"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Day Two on Cabot Trail coming up tomorrow!

 

 





Doesn't it look like it's in Scotland

A digression.  I forgot to tell you that on Tuesday we ended the day by stopping at Colaisde na Gàidhlig – the Gaelic College located in St. Ann (www.gaeliccollege.edu).  They teach all kinds of Scottish cultural subjects:  weaving and kiltmaking, Gaelic language, music and dance (including the bagpipes), etc.  We picked up several Clan Mackay items (because Rick’s McKee family thinks it descended from Scottish Mackay clansmen.  HOWEVER, based on some recent genealogical research, it may be that they really were Irish J .  Does it make a difference?  Just ask an Irishman or a Scotsman!!!!

Mackay tartans

 

 

Enjoy the journey…Dona and Rick